Hokokai Pagi Sore, stamped Pouw Lian Kwi
Vibrance. A Chinese batik skirt cloth from the north coast of Java, Indonesia, most likely Pekalongan stamped with the maker's name, Pouw Lian Kwi. A stamped piece like a signed piece is usually an indication of status and high quality, much like designer clothing today. This piece is a pagi sore or morning-evening batik which is diagonally divided with each half having its own distinctive pattern or design. This allows the wearer to arrange the cloth for two strikingly different effects. Pagi sores are typical of batiks from the island of Java. Batiks made during the period of Japanese Occupation of Java in the 2nd World War are known as Hokokai batiks, and are recognizable instantly for their very vibrant colors and strong designs as a result of the Japanese influence. Dominant colors on this Hokokai batik are green, indigo and gold. Chrysanthemum flowers and butterflies feature on one half of the pagi sore, and peacocks and native hibiscus flowers feature on the other half. Distinctively, the Hokokai has panels on each end of the batik which are completely different from each other. Made between 1942 and 1945. See pages 176 to 181 of Batik, Fabled Cloth of Java by Inger McCabe Elliott for information on Hokokais.
Lot No: 8706
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